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No-Nonsense Indian Fare at Teji's

07.12.2016 by: Tom Harris
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Teji’s façade on the Drag

If Indian food is my favorite cuisine, and Teji’s is the best Indian place in town, is Teji’s my favorite restaurant? Alas, my palate isn’t as transitive as that, but there’s no doubt that this unassuming hole-in-the-wall across the street from UT campus is a gem hidden in plain sight.

There’s not much to entice passing foot traffic, and its basic-but-clean shotgun layout isn’t particularly distinctive, but boy, do these folks know how to cook.

This time around, we picked a standby favorite—a decadent navrattan korma—and branched out with a tangy kadahi paneer and some Peshawari naan.

Navrattan korma. We meet again, my old friend.

Like most kormas, Teji’s offering was luxurious and thick, with the mouth-filling creaminess enrobing meltingly tender vegetables. There’s something almost overwhelmingly umami about their take, which makes it a great complement to lighter dishes. As a solo dish, it would be a bit much, but paired with a jalfrezi or a tomato gravy-based dish, it’s sublime.

Peshawari naan. Do yourself a favor and get this stuff.

I love naan, but I’d never had the Peshawari variation, which is stuffed with finely chopped almonds, cashews, and a hint of cherry. This stuff is a straight-up revelation—nutty, with a suggestion of sweetness, it tamed our spicy dishes and served as an excellent palate-cleanser.

Kadahi paneer

The kadahi paneer turned out to be an inspired choice. It served as an excellent counterpoint to the luxurious but heavy korma. Bright, tangy, and bursting with crisp-tender stir-fried vegetables and mouth-soothing, chewily dense cubes of paneer, this was the sprightly yin to korma’s staid yang.

We had plenty of leftovers and no room for dessert, which is a shame, because Teji’s mango lassi is dee-lish.

There can be a little bit of authenticity one-upsmanship when it comes to ethnic eats, so I understand if my endowment of Teji’s as the best North Indian joint in town might sound like lazy hyperbole. But trust  me—in this case, it’s not. These guys absolutely know what they’re doing.

{Teji's Official Website}

TAGS : UT Campus , Teji's Indian Restaurant